There are places that immediately seem familiar as if they have known each other for a long time. Places that resonate with a contemporary calm that immediately seems permanent and not at all elusive. The Seleni forest in Lanusei is certainly one of these places. Here, silence whispers through the foliage of the proud, robust trees, which seem to want to protect us from noise and commotion. The Seleni Forest is one of the most important green lungs that characterise the Ogliastra hinterland. Its strategic position, its flat morphology, the abundance of springs and the wealth of flora and fauna have always ensured the colonisation of this area. From pre-Nuragic times to the present day a very close relationship has developed between man and nature.

The etymology of the name Seléni has been much debated, but we still have no certainty. Many commentators assume that the name is derived from the Greek Titan Selene, the goddess of the moon, which suggests a connection between the place and the ancient moon cults. However, according to some written sources cited by the famous General Angelino Usai in his work on the Nuragic complex of the same name, the most certain references to the forest always seem to refer to the name Seléni. Some remarkable clues can be found in the records of a legal dispute between the municipality of Lanusei and some of its citizens. In this legal dispute, which dates back to 1842, the name is often referred to as Santa Seleni, S’Eleni or Seleni. A plausible hypothesis could be that there was a temple in honour of Saint Helena near the forest. There are 267 of these in Sardinia. It is significant that in the area of Gairo, which borders the forest, there is a fountain called Sa Funtana de Sant’Eleni (the Fountain of St Helen).

 The close relationship that existed between these places and the religious cults has been lost over time. Just think of the two marvellous tombs of the giants in the plain and the cult of the dead associated with them. It is as if the Seleni Forest were guarding the authentic soul of the people who have inhabited this area for thousands of years. A deep and sacred connection that also affects the two rural churches dedicated to Saints Cosmas and Damian (Santi Cosma e Damiano) and Mary Help of Christians (Maria Ausiliatrice). On the occasion of the feast of the saints, these places are decorated with the ornaments of the festivities and become the setting for traditional songs and elegant dances to the frenetic rhythm of accordions. The Seleni has historically been a place of relaxation and of socialising. This is evidenced by the large number of characteristic granite tables, which are ideal for a picnic or a “spuntino” (in Sardinia this word means much more than just a simple snack as in the rest of Italy) in company. Almost always near a stone fireplace, where you can responsibly light a fire, you will find them filled with roasted meats, cheeses, cold cuts and typical desserts, everything accompanied by a full-bodied Cannonau wine.

A typical day in the forest is best enjoyed with a nice walk in the shade of the foliage. From the Seleni plain, there are many paths that lead down into the valley to the town centre, or you can venture even further inland by climbing Monte Tricoli or the Monte Armidda, where the “Ferdinando Caliumi” astronomical observatory is located.

In the forest, along a path that leads to the end of the plain in the direction of the town, there is a place that is unknown to most and is surrounded by an aura of fascination and mystery. We are talking about the so-called Grutta de Cristolu Locci. In this place, identified as a non-karstic cave under a large granite hollow overlooking the shady valley of Abba Frida, a certain Cristoforo Locci, a particularly dangerous fugitive bandit, is said to have been executed. Some bones found under the monolith have certainly fuelled people’s imagination. Apart from oral tradition, we know for certain that at the end of the 19th century this place repeatedly served as a hiding place for some notorious bandits who found a safe haven here to escape justice to escape.

By Rino Giotta

The forest structure of Seleni, which is almost entirely owned by the municipality of Lanusei, is largely represented by mighty, tall holm oaks (Quercus ilex) in full density and represents the most widespread and characteristic type of vegetation in Sardinia. This type of forest formation was once much more widespread on the island and covered a large part of the territory, finding a suitable environment from sea level to altitudes of around 1,400 metres.

Under Piedmontese rule, the structure of the countryside initially remained unchanged, but then Minister Bogino‘s innovative policies led to the intensive exploitation of local resources (mining and forestry) in the name of progress and modernisation.

Until the middle of the 18th century, the forest cover was quite considerable in terms of extent and covered practically the entire regional territory. The forests of Goceano joined those of Gallura to the north, those of S. Leonardo and Scano Montiferro to the west and finally those of Barbagia, Ogliastra and Gerrei to the east and south.

The greatest damage dates back to the last two centuries, when most forests were subjected to wild and reckless logging that seriously jeopardised their survival. Today, there are very few intact forest areas that have survived the human onslaught. The deforestation were used to supply a variety of wooden materials: piles to secure mine shafts, railway sleepers, firewood for domestic use or for the production of charcoal.

Inside the Seleni park, for instance, there is what, from historical investigations, turns out to be a larder built by Pisan charcoal burners in the early 1900s. The peculiarity of this alleged larder is that it is located opposite the tomb of the Seleni II giants, from which the charcoal burners may have taken the stones necessary for its construction. This proximity, however, also raises the doubt that the small, rectangular building was not originally a megaron temple, reworked by Pisan workers for their own purposes. Only a thorough excavation investigation could tell us what the truth is.

The Seleni forest has largely escaped this unfortunate fate. Today, the locals look upon it with special fondness and admire its majesty, vastness and beauty.

The continuous work carried out over the years by the administrations, co-operatives, associations and citizens of Lanusei is increasingly transforming Seleni Park into a place where inclusion is combined with history, nature, art and sport.

The Seleni is indeed a perfect place for outdoor activities such as jogging, cycling, hiking, climbing, basketball. The list is long. The purity of the air combined with the undisturbed nature creates a perfect environment in which to spend a time of total relaxation.

For the youngest, for example, there are two equipped areas: the Fantabosco area, where they can try their hand at a real climbing wall under the supervision of older children, and the play area at the start of the level, where children can play and have fun in complete safety.

Another step towards inclusion in the park is the Àndala Segùra trail, a closed-off path of around 1,600 metres that is accessible to people with psycho-physical disabilities. The path is equipped with canes for the blind, tactile panels with NFC labels in English and Italian, which are translated into Italian. The signs are translated into Braille and equipped with signs in CAA (augmented alternative communication for people with autism spectrum disorders). The walk leads to the two tombs of the giants, the Gennacili complex and the Sa Furca ‘e Sa Pruna viewpoint, where you can find an unexpected installation by the artist Stefania Lai. Another work of art, or rather “archaic pop art“, that surrounds the route is the majestic Bic-Bronzetto, which was donated to the park by the artist Valerio Pisano and stands in the Seleni plain.

Another important service that enables access to the archaeological sites for people with special motor disabilities are the electric tricycles provided by the Lanusei municipality via the Cooperativa La Nuova Luna to make it easier to get off-road.